Ocala National Forest

Travis is the trip planner. For some reason he enjoys spending hours on the internet looking up every possible option involved with any trip we do. For this occasion, I attempted to plan a four day bike trip through the Ocala National Forest to Blue Spring in Orange City, which is right outside of Orlando. I was overruled, partly because my trip planning ended after I looked up the bike route option on Google Maps. Also, Travis told me about how his Romanian intern said the main difference between American women and Romanian women was that Romanian women don't talk back, and how for ONE DAY WOULD I PLEASE JUST LET HIM DO WHAT HE WANTS WITHOUT QUESTIONING EVERYTHING HE SAYS. So we didn't go on a bike trip. We went backpacking. Because that's what my boyfriend wanted for his birthday.

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In my mediocre trip planning however, I did find Juniper Springs Recreational Area, which was right smack in the middle of the Ocala National Forest. Travis used that as our start off point. Our entrance into the wilderness started on the Florida Trail, a 1300 mile trail that stretches across the state starting in Pensacola Beach and ending at Big Cypress National Preserve in the Everglades. But WHAT? Yes, seriously, that is a thing. I didn't know. But now I am pumped to hike all of it. (Is someone going to pay me to go on nature trips yet? BECAUSE I'M READY.)

We started North through the forest. The Ocala National Forest is the oldest National Forest East of the Mississippi, and its 383,000 acres cover the area between Gainesville and Orlando. Even though the terrain is brittle and desert-like, it's rife with water sources including 600 lakes and three first-magnitude springs. It's the landscape that Margorie Kinnan Rawlings used as the backdrop for The Yearling, her 1938 Pulitzer Prize-winning novel. And the landscape is certainly distinct, different from what I'm used to in the Panhandle and beautiful in its own stark way. It was a warm day, and it was unseasonably warm even for Central Florida, but the sky was bright blue and an awesome time to be outside.

We passed through four distinct landscapes in five miles: squatty scrub oak forests; spindly waving scrub pines; burnt out forest in the first decade of regrowth; and golden grass prairies.

It wasn't till halfway through the hike that we realized we had forgotten a lighter, which might have been a consequence of celebrating Travis' birthday at the Top the night before. It was the kind of night that caused him to tumble off the back of the tandem bike we rode to the bar. I don't know whether to blame it on the bike, my steering, or the well tequila shots, but in any case we didn't have anything to light our stove with. Luckily we passed a Boy Scout troop that let us have one. At least THEY were prepared.

The Boy Scouts took the optimum camping site, which sheltered by a hammock of oaks right next to a stream fed pond. So we kept hiking on over the next hill and spotted a graveyard of burnt out oak tree skeletons nestled in a meadow of tall dry grass. It looked creepy and awesome and it was obviously the best place to set up tent.

The soil was straight sugar sand, which meant yet another Florida camping trip shaking sand out of all our gear-- no matter where we go, whether it's the beach, a river, or a forest, we always camp on sugar sand. We made camp in a flash, and then I made peanut butter ramen with wilted Swiss chard (we fancy). Just as I was adding the flavor packs to the noodles, I noticed the dark clouds that had been gathering behind the oaks were starting to look a little more ominous. Travis also noticed, but Travis suffers from something called "weather optimism". It's not raining, it's misting. Well, ok it's raining, but it will pass by quickly. So it's been pouring for 45 minutes, at least it's not hail. I tried my best to be a Romanian girlfriend and not question his judgement, but it was difficult. It took a lightening count of one second to convince him that we actually needed to put on the rain fly. And then it really rained.

This was not just a steady rain. This was an intense, nutso rain that made me worry maybe the tent would blow away. This is the kind of rain that really puts your tent to the test, and makes you rethink your choice of camp placement. The wind was so strong it basically collapsed the frame of the tent, so much so that I thought we set up the poles wrong. The rain was blowing in sideways, plastering the rain fly right up against the side of the tent (thus negating its purpose) and blowing the droplets in through the mesh, creating a fine mist that lightly dusted Travis and all of his sleeping gear. Luckily, Travis brought an emergency poncho that we ripped apart to create a water shield, while simultaneously recreating a scene from Dexter.

It was over soon enough though. Not real soon, but soon enough that the poncho scheme worked and we were able to sleep dry. I passed out when it got dark. At 6:30. PM. It was great. It's amazing what the absence of light bulbs does to your little brain.

Needless to say, I woke up feeling REFRESHED. The slight humidity and heat of the day before was replaced with the kind of weather that makes Florida's intolerable heat worthwhile: high 60s, no humidity, bright sun and blue blue sky. Winter in Florida is beautiful. That was the hardest part about living away up North for three winters. I couldn't handle the January grey.

As everyone knows, the early bird get the worm, so we set off to do some early morning bird watching. We walked out separately into the oak scrub, burnt out oak snags and meadows surrounding our campsite to see what we could find.

The night before Travis caught sight of a bird that looked like Florida Scrub Jay, but the twilight made it difficult to ID. Five minutes into my walk, I was sure. I walked up on a whole family of them clustered high up in an oak snag. The flew around from branch to branch, cracking open nuts and talking to each other. They even followed me for a little bit, the leader calling to everyone else to keep up and check out this girl walking through their forest.

Florida Scrub Jays are the only bird in the United States to be found exclusively in Florida. Birders from all over the country come to scrub country to catch a glimpse of one. And Travis saw one on his birthday! There is a campaign to get Florida's State Bird changed from the Northern Mockingbird (boooooooring) to the Scrub Jay. I'm all for it, and seriously, forget mockingbirds. Scrub Jays are restricted to living in scrub habitat. These dudes depend on wildfires for their homes-- the regrowth the occurs afterward, as well as the dead trees that are left behind. And of course this habitat is in danger of disappearing as Florida's development continues its terrible march. It makes refuges like state parks, national parks and forests, private reserves, and other forms of habitat conservation so much more important as the pressures of human impact encroach on the lives of creatures like the Scrub Jay. I am all for paying more taxes to keep those programs going.

We finished off the morning by hiking a little further North on the Florida Trail, getting a little deeper into the wild of the forest. Everything we saw was just five miles away from civilization, and the diversity found in that experience makes me appreciate all over again how special these natural places are. I can't wait to hike 15 miles into the forest. Who knows WHAT I'll find then.

In any case, we had to turn around, and finish out our hike right where it started: Juniper Springs. It was mid-January, but it was Central Florida so you know what that means.

The cool thing about swimming in the springs in the winter is that the water temperature is always the same, so it ends up feeling much warmer than you would expect, especially if it's cooler than 70 degrees outside. So we had our January swimming moment, and then packed the car for the next leg of our journey-- Blue Spring to continue Manatee Count.

    Wakulla River

    The Wakulla River has returned to prominence now during Manatee Count 2013/2014. Over the past eight years, a growing population of manatees overwinters in Wakulla Springs. Just as a refresher, as wintertime temperatures cool the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, manatees migrate to warmer water in Florida's rivers and springs, which remain a constant temperature above 70 degrees. They will die of exposure in water temperatures lower than 68 degrees. (Read more about manatees in the Crystal River post.) The theory is that Wakulla is attracting overflow populations from Crystal River and Homosassa. After they spend the winter with plenty to eat in the big spring, they tell their friends back in the Gulf so more arrive each year. The last I heard there were 60 manatees at the park last winter.

    I had some foreign visitors stay with me in early September-- Shaun is Scottish and Bettina is Swiss (follow her travel blog!) . They had been traveling together for months, starting in Canada and making their way out West to California, then winding their way South toward Miami so they could eventually catch a plane to Panama. Well obviously I had to show them Tallahassee's most remarkable natural landmark, so we embarked on the River Boat Tour on my day off.

    These days the glass-bottom boats aren't used anymore. In the 20 years that have passed since my elementary school days, the spring has become too cloudy from runoff pollution. Most of it flows from Tallahassee over 20 miles away, which is yet another reminder that everything we do is connected and has consequence. I'm not kidding when I said Wakulla is the biggest spring is the world-- it pumps out 260 millions gallons of water a day. On top of that, Wakulla Springs is connected to the largest and deepest system of underwater caves in the world. This is a serious landmark, and it's depressing to think I've watched it decline in my lifetime. I don't know, these rivers and springs are a part of where I'm from, and one of the reasons for writing this blog is to try and show how special and beautiful they are so maybe other people will care too. 

    In any case, and it was during the river boat tour with Bettina and Shaun was when Manatee Count started in earnest-- we counted seven of them, including two calves.

    Unfortunately, canoeing isn't allowed in the spring, so the only manatee viewing in the park must be done from the boat tour. So in mid October 2013, ten years after me and Scottie's boat flipping, Travis and I put in the river at the very same spot. It was a beautiful sunny day, and the river was really showing off. It was still warm out, but not hot. It was the magical time of year where you can go swimming and have a bonfire on the same day. I came prepared in my RealTree(™) bikini.

    Every boater we passed, whether a small motorboat, kayak, or paddleboard had the same question- "Have y'all seen any manatees today?" The weather had cooled down just enough to entice manatees in from the Gulf, but it wasn't so cold that they were huddled together at the spring in the warmest water. We kept our eyes peeled for the tell tale sign of manatee activity-- water ripples, bubbles, and emerging snouts.

    Then, there they were! A mother and calf!

    Over by a dock we happened to paddle right by was a mama and her baby chowing down on the invasive hydrilla weed plaguing Florida's rivers. These dudes were really just munching away, and they didn't seem to mind our 17 ft canoe hovering above them for 15 minutes as we paddled right up next to them for the best pictures. I had never seen a manatee like this before. Unlike Crystal River with its theme park atmosphere, this encounter was just us and the manatees, not with 25 other people straining to get a glimpse. It was peaceful. We just looked at each other and went on our ways.

    We paddled down six miles to the other bridge, the classic turnaround point. The upstream journey was a bit more strenuous, and paddling against the current makes for more difficult steering. I truly believe that canoeing is the perfect litmus test as to whether a relationship has got what it takes to survive. Travis and I went canoeing in the intercoastal near St. Augustine on our very first date, and not only did get along swimmingly, we even got lost in the maze of waterways and had to turn around a few times and didn't even get pissy. My last boyfriend and I couldn't even get the canoe loaded on the car without screaming at each other. Just saying.

    After steering us marvelously upstream, Travis worked up a sweat and had to attempt his classic cannonball out the side of the canoe just for old times sake. The form is a little more difficult to pull together when your starting point is a rocking boat, but it was a valiant effort.

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    As it turns out, we got lucky and saw a total of five manatees on the river that day, including another mama/baby pair. After I posted pictures on the internet my smartass friend asked me how I know that I didn't just see the same ones repeatedly HUH?? Sadly, you can easily tell them apart because of their propeller scars, which distinguish them from their otherwise unintelligibly similar-looking buddies. One of the mothers had a big white scar across her back, and the other mother's tail was ragged with healed propeller gashes. 

    And just an addendum to this piece: my sister Scottie has returned home from France for a short visit, and just for old times sake we took a New Year's Eve Wakulla canoe adventure to reenact our classic trip.

     

    Thankfully she didn't tip the canoe this time, nor did she even rock it. She was however, JUST AS HORRIBLE at paddling as I recalled, paddling approximately six strokes on our journey down river, and even turning completely around to focus on a snack break.

    We checked for manatees the whole time and didn't see a one, giving up when we reached our put in spot by the first bridge. We had actually stepped out of the boat to start loading up when a paddleboarder called to us to tell us a manatee was hanging out under the bridge, so we rushed back into the boat to catch a look. It's not everyone who can flick through their phone to show their friends "This is what I did when I went home for Christmas". Only people from Florida.

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    Wakulla Springs

    If you grow up in Tallahassee, you relationship with the Wakulla River really began in second grade with your first field trip to Wakulla Springs State Park, the home of the largest freshwater spring in the world. IN THE WORLD.

    There, you and your classmates boarded the glass bottom boats that circled the never ending pit of the spring, and you strained to catch a glimpse of the mullet, river grass, and fallen trees lit up in bright blue as the sun filtered through the crystal water. Or you crowded on to the river tour boats with the benevolent park rangers who pointed out the different birds and plants, but really all you and your friends were doing were counting alligators. Sometimes the total would get up into the 20s.

    After school was out for the summer, your parents would pile you and your friends into the minivan some July afternoon and make the 20 minute drive to Wakulla County to hit the swimming hole.

    Instead of being confined to State Park watercraft, you and your hooligan friends would brave the icy spring water and jump off the double decker platform tower, holding your nose and hoping for a giant splash. The water was perfect, blue, and freezing.

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    The Wakulla River, however, is a different story. Wakulla Springs State Park boundary ends a few miles down from the spring. And though the river is obviously connected to the spring in the park, it has no grand entrance. No signs, no gift shop, no lifeguards. In fact, I never realized it was a place you could go until I was in high school, when some friends showed me the boat ramp next to the bridge on Shadeville Road. My parents are decidedly middle class indoor types, so any knowledge of canoe launches or river runs were welcome gems of discovery for both me and my sister Scottie.

    So my relationship with the Wakulla River didn't really get its start until Scottie and I canoed it by ourselves for the first time-- no small feat for a pair of sisters who didn't really like each other growing up.

    I was 18 and about to graduate high school, which means Scottie was 13. It was a spring day, and we had loaded up my parents' canoe (a remnant from their more adventurous youth), and after some iffy navigation excavated from memory of a previous trip with friends, we found the bridge. A gravel parking lot on the side of the road leads down to the waters' edge, and we heaved our vessel into the river to begin paddling.

    The Wakulla is a special beauty. The river's edge is lined with ancient bald cypress trees, tall grey pillars with ragged bark, topped with osprey nests and dripping with curtains of spanish moss. Native eel grass ripples like mermaid hair on the river floor, its sinewy green strands waving with the current.

    And the birds! We're not talking about spotting one if you've got binoculars-- flocks of white ibises probing the water for prey; moorhens and greebs bobbing along the surface; great blue herons stalking fish; anhingas perching with their wings spread in the sun to dry.

    I have no idea how much Scottie was actually paying attention to this. In true little sister fashion, what she was most interested in was seeing how little paddling she could get away with before I yelled at her, and  how much she could rock the canoe before it tipped. I clearly remember asking her how many gators she remembered counting on the boat tour during her school field trips. Whatever the number was, it was of no consequence because she found just the amount of force needed to capsize the canoe, dumping us and all our sundries into the cold river water.

    It was at this point that I more vehemently reminded her about all those gators. Infuriatingly, she replied that if there WERE any gators, they could sense my panic, so I should probably stop yelling and splashing like a crazy person.

    We righted the canoe and were drifting down stream trying to decide on a game plan. We attempted to climb back into the boat from the water, which is of course impossible. The river houses docks jut out into the water, and they would allow us to reach dry land while avoiding the marshy grasses where alligators take to sunbathing in complete camouflage. We were in the process of approaching a rickety dock when a boat appeared from around the bend. A father and his (count 'em) seven children leaned over the boat's edge, announcing that we appeared to be in a quite a pickle.

    Within seconds we were pulled aboard as the riverrat family turned their boat around to retrieve our paddles and sneakers, which miraculously survived the wreckage. In fact, the only thing I recall losing was my favorite red bandana- a minor tragedy. As we got all situated and returned to our canoe, one of the many daughters pointed towards the shore and said, “Looks like there's a gator over there who wanted to invite you over to lunch.” It was true-- we had floated right past a little six-footer resting by the river's edge, eyes just barely popped out above the water, its tail easily mistaken for a log.

    As soon as our rescuers were out of range I shrieked at Scottie, “I TOLD YOU THERE WERE ALLIGATORS IN THIS RIVER DON'T YOU TELL ME TO BE CALM.” To which she replied, “Well at least it will make a good story.”

    To be continued...

     

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