West Coast Observations and Amtrak Freaks

As promised, I offer you my judgement of Washington: so far, so pretty damn good. First, some observations about the West Coast in general. First, HUGE East Asian and Pacific influence. Not surprising I suppose, but it's interesting to notice regional cultural differences. Second, what is up with these courteous drivers????? All you have to do is approach a curb and drivers on both sides of the street come to a dead stop. I don't quite believe it yet. I'm waiting for them to honk at me as soon as I set foot in the street, demanding that I get out of their road. This is coming from a girl who lives in the state with the most pedestrian deaths per year. Third, the weather. It is July. I live in a swamp. So encountering cloudless blue skies with zero percent humidity and temperatures in the 70s is bordering insane. I am pretty sure that the weather accounts for 90% of Travis' decision to do our tour in the Pacific Northwest. He really hates Florida's outrageous summers.

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Now moving on to train people. I have never ridden the Amtrak before. We rode it to save a little money, and also Travis loves trains. But I was not expecting the train conversations I encountered in the 20 hours we spent riding from San Francisco to Seattle. It's a strange cultural island where normal customs don't apply. Being trapped in a moving vehicle for almost an entire days makes it acceptable to interact with people you normally would avoid.

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 Are you an affable, balding Chilean geophysicist who is still coming to understand American society? Cool, you should sit down and talk at length with the mother/daughter pair returning from visiting relatives in Tacoma. Are you a boisterous, 25 year old who enjoys tanning leather stripped from roadkill? Awesome, you should strike up a conversation with the vacationing French Canadian woman who also speaks German and Spanish. I saw a businessman with the build of a football player give his number to a latino adolescent after dispensing adult life advice for a half hour. I overheard a cyclist in his 60s describe his journey visiting his online girlfriend who he hadn't seen in eight months. The real freaks were the good natured, atteractive teenage brother and sister who willingly hung out with each other AND their dad, playing cards and telling stories the whole journey. Who does that??

 I even made a new friend and spilled my current life story-- despite my Resting Bitch Face-- to a 20 year old named Krissa after we worked on some sewing projects together. Krissa started college when she was 14 (!?!), and after being rejected from two medical research PhD programs because of her youth, she decided to bike from the Canadian border to the Mexican border. She hopes to make it to LA by August 21 to celebrate her 21st birthday. She was sewing new elastic bands into her bike shorts, and she was super sweet. I certainly wish her luck. 

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We arrived in Seattle without incident, and after grabbing some excellent Vietnamese food in Little Saigon, we rolled up to the Polo Mansion, our place of rest for the evening. Bike Polo is like punk rock in a way-- the scene is so specified that if you're in, you're a part of an international network of hookups. There are nine people living in this Polo Mansion, though we've only seen four of them and spoken to them for a total of 20 minutes. But it's cool, we're crashing on their couches and using their shower and we're super grateful for it. 

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Are you wondering about my homemade beef jerky? I know you're intrigued. Well I dehydrated tons of it in Gainesville right before we left and it is the perfect balance of sweet, salty, peppery and spicy. I am going to eat so much of it during this trip and it's going to be awesome. 

So far Seattle has been pretty magical. There's a lot to tell, and the sun doesn't go down till 10pm here so the days have been extremely full. More to come tomorrow.  

And We're Off!

Hello West Coast Tourrible. It's been a long time waiting for you to get here, and I wish I were in a better mood to greet you.

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Here are some things about my life. You have probably discovered this blog as a stranger: you don't know me and you might not care, so if you want to see pretty pictures and travel stories, then skip ahead.

I've been slowly cutting ties from my life over the past few months. I closed my business and lost a huge part of my identity now that I'm no longer a farmer. My best friends have moved away, and I have been making plans to move to Gainesville and live with Travis. My plan was to spend the next two years earning a graduate degree in Agricultural Education at the University of Florida, and get my hand on the paper that would make me more qualified to teach what I'm most passionate about. Well, bright and early on the first day of West Coast Tourrible, I found out I wasn't accepted to the program. So now here I am-- I just turned 30, I have no job, and I'm on tour with literally no idea what I'll be doing after these next six weeks are over. This is absolutely not where I thought I would be at this point in my life, and I'm not super stoked on it. 

But at least I'm on bike tour, right? And at least my boyfriend is on bike tour with me. The big life picture is not looking that great right now, and I know it could be a lot worse. But keep all that in mind as you read about this journey. If anything it adds some perspective to the story- Heartbroken 30-Year-Old Woman Gives Up Livelihood, Is Rejected From Grad School, Rides Down Pacific Coast On Bicycle With Adoring Boyfriend.

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Alright, here's the funner stuff. Travis and I left Gainesville 7am Wednesday morning, and landed in San Francisco a few hours later. Travel days are generally pretty stressful, and that stress is amplified when you're respsonible for lugging around two bicycle-sized  cardboard boxes weighing 50 lbs each. After some strenuous lugging through public transportation and some very expensive cab rides to the wrong places, we ended up at Missing Link bike shop, putting our bikes back together in their community work space. Way to go big cities, with your long-standing, worker-owned, successful bicycle cooperatives. You really helped us in a major way at the start of our journey. 

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We stayed the night with Travis' buddy Dustin, a recent Oakland transplant hailing from Gainesville. Dustin has been into coffee for a few years now, and the Bay Area is allowing him to nerd out about it in a real way AND make money at it working at a local roaster.

We witnessed his afficionado the next day when he asked the barista at a rival roaster about their single source, dark roasted Ethiopian beans. She answered his dozen questions with enthusiasm. I will admit, the iced coffee from that place was unlike any coffee I've ever had before.

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I've never been to San Francisco before, so Dustin pointed us in the directions of the prime tourist spots. We had to see the Golden Gate Bridge, obvi.  

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We rode along the bay and met a charming dog walker and his incredible menagerie of canines.

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We also tooled around Golden Gate Park to check out the Flower Conservancy (voted as San Francisco's #1 First Date Spot).

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Finally, we rode back into the heart of the city, where the real iconic San Francisco comes through: big ass hills, crazy colored Victorian houses, extremely well-dressed hipsters in zine shops. So far, the most notable feature of the West Coast is the nutso bike lanes.

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It's like city government recognized bike commuting as a legitimate form of transportation, and then actually ENCOURAGED citizens to ride bikes by providing adequate infrastructure. CRAZY. I still have some sight seeing to do, but luckily our trip begins AND ends in San Francisco, so I'll still have some time to putz around.

I'm currently on a train to Seattle, and I have been on this train for the past 20 hours. Tomorrow I will give you my opinion of train people, my new homemade beef jerky recipe, and the state of Washington. 

 

Brokeback Bike

When you take your bike into the shop for a tuneup three days before a six-week tour, literally the last thing you want to hear is, "Hey I didn't do any repairs because your frame is broken." WHAT. My seatstay had completely separated from the seat tube, and I was informed that I shouldn't ride it at all, much less load it down with 50 lbs of weight. I had three days to find someone who could fix it in Gainesville. Over a weekend.

Luckily, the man who built my bike was on his was into town for a bike polo tournament, and Travis' bike mechanic roommate Brian keeps welding equipment in his massive storage unit/workshop. Justin built my Old Field Cycles from about five years ago and it has served me well, but apparently the offroad abuse I subjected the bike to last tour took its toll.

Justin quickly removed the components that shouldn't be exposed to extremely hot flame, lit the torch and within 20 minutes everything was back together. I don't know very much about welding, but from what I understand Justin melted a rod of metal to superglue the seatstay to the seat tube, and when it cooled, a solid connection was formed. How's that for technical.

Now here's the part of the story to remember: when you buy from people you know and trust, they bend over backwards to help you when you need it. If I had broken a Trek frame days before tour, Trek certainly wouldn't have stopped what they were doing to weld it back together. Justin did. So that's why you support your local makers and craftspeople.


#tbt Torreya, and a love story

#tbt: It's Throwback Thursday, y'all. All the kids are doing it.

Do you want to hear how all this came to be? Or at least the abbreviated version? Sure you do.

It all started about a year and a half ago. I was fresh out of a LTR that had made me pretty miserable, and I had very little interest in going steady with anyone. I was living it up as a single lady, enjoying the perks (lots of dates) and pitfalls (mostly dates with idiots).  Travis and I started going on dates after I complained to him about the dearth of dateable boys in Tallahassee. He started coming up from Gainesville and taking me on fun dates. Canoe dates. Bike dates. Hike dates.

However, the only commitment I was ready to make was a commitment to the single life. Dates were fine, but things happen to a girl when her heart gets broken and everything she imagined for her future didn’t turn out as she planned. Despite the obvious boyfriend material, Travis and I remained unofficial.

We made plans to visit Torreya State Park Valentines Days weekend 2013. This park is seriously one of North Florida’s treasures. The Apalachicola River marks its western boundary, and within it live species of plants that only exist in that region. Like the endangered Torreya Tree-- there are 200 of these dudes in existence! And they exist 60 miles west of Tallahassee!

Well not surprisingly, a day trip to the park that some Baptists believe was the Garden of Eden turned out to be pretty magical.

The woods in this area are so strange, so different from the planted longleaf pine forests that surround Tallahassee after the logging companies wiped out the old growth forests. This is Upland Hardwood Forest territory, and instead of the ubiquitous longleaf pine, magnolia and beech trees are the predominant canopy species. The Apalachicola River cuts out bluffs that are 200 feet tall. Limestone boulders jut out through the hills, pockmarked with smooth holes where erosion has left its mark. The land slopes down toward the river, leaving you hopping over sections of flooded trail where the river floods up into the swamp. Tupelo trees and bald cypress spread out their buttressed trunks like graceful shoulders supporting a very long neck.

And I didn’t have to enjoy this beauty alone. I was taking it all in with someone who was cracking jokes the whole time and making me laugh. We had to take an ID break to make sure the gelatinous mushrooms we were picking were in fact woodears. We both stopped every 15 feet to take a guess which wildflower was blooming on the side of the trail. We were both totally impressed with the landscape around us and having fun with each other.

We drove back into town and I realized it was Valentines Day I was in love.

TRUE STORY.

And honestly, how could I refuse a man who my cats had accepted with such enthusiasm?