Up On the Umpqua

I feel like the wrong waterway gets hyped here in Oregon. Forget the coast, dudes. The rivers are where it's happening!

We continued traveling up the Umpqua River today, with slight hopes of completing another 70 miles on our way to Crater Lake, but those hopes were quickly dashed by lunchtime. Though traffic did pick up to about a three cars an hour, the road we followed did not inspire rapidity. It was rolling, winding, treelined, canopied, full of wildlife, and it followed a beautiful river. I was certainly in no hurry.

We stopped for lunch at a county riverside park that was perfectly situated for swimming. The river's sandstone rocks were exposed on the shore, and the current wasn't too swift. And it was hot. Boiling for Oregon, but a nice May afternoon for Floridians. The water was cold, but warmer than Florida springs. The rocks were heated by the sun. It was amazing.

There was a breeze, but not enough to make me want to find a wind shelter. I saw zero signs warning me to never turn my back on the river. I did not encounter any killer logs floating downstream that could possibly kill me. River: 3, Pacific: 0. So if I ever buy a summer home in Oregon, it won't be on the coast. It will be along the river. 

Following the Umpqua River has turned out to be the best decision of the trip so far. Big conifers line the river, and the water changes from clear, blue green deep spots so still you can see the rocky bottom, to fast moving aqua rapids tumbling between green mossy boulders. Meanwhile there are still hardly any cars, but there's enough civilization to refill our water bottles when they get empty. 

As we increase elevation, the landscape becomes craggier, with big notched boulders flanking the highway, and taller and taller trees. The river water has become much colder as we get closer to its source, Diamond Lake. And we're just about halfway to our real destination- just 4500 more feet of elevation till Crater Lake.

Into the Mountains!

Leaving 101 was an immediate, drastic change. In our last two hours of riding we saw one truck, and it's driver stopped to make sure we actually knew where we were going.

Oh yeah, that's how you know you're getting off the beaten path.

The climate changed immediately as soon as we turned off the coast- last night was our coldest night so far and required some intense snuggling, but following the Umpqua River east we felt temperatures climb into the mid 80s. This is my kind of weather, screw this jackets in August BS. The landscape became softer as we entered farm country. The forest had been cleared long ago to make way for homesteads, and these pastoral acres seemed to be epitome of what we imagine American rural life to be.

Travis is using an itinerary for this jaunt from www.crazymanonabike.com, so it's not too shocking that we encountered some surprises. We were on mile 55 or so when we got off the main road, thinking that it would be a quick 15 miles to the campsite. Well it was 15 miles, but it wasn't quick. What Crazy Man On A Bike described as a "2.5 mile big hill" turned out to be on gravel and the steepest climb we've conquered probably ever. Travis had to get off and walk his bike, and I have NEVER seen him do that.

It was all worth it though. This was some very pretty riding today, definitely the quietest, and we ended up at a sweet campground with a river that is actually swimming temperature, AND a kitten came to visit us while we were making dinner!!!!!!!!!!

​Also, we arrived right at sunset.

So thanks for the route, www.crazymanonabike.com!

Thoughts on the Oregon Coast

True, we only spent like five days riding the Oregon Coast Scenic Bike Trail, but I have some things to say about it. 

1. We got real spoiled last year on our Arches to Dunes tour through Southwest Colorado. We stuck to rural roads and sometimes passed an hour without seeing a car. This Oregon Coast bike trail on is just a wide shoulder on a very busy highway, or at least the part of 101 that we traveled on. True, these past couple of days have been prettier and less noisy, but for the most part the "bike trail" aspect disappeared along with a safe, rideable shoulder. There are parts of 101 that shouldn't have bikes on it at all. 

2. Oregon State Parks are great. Every park has hiker/biker camping sections that are only $6 per person, and they are situated far away from screaming children in the RV/tent section. Park rangers are cheerful and helpful, and the land in the parks is truly beautiful.

3. We're started to run into a few of the same bike tourists at the hiker/biker sites as we made our way down the coast, and without fail they only approach Travis for conversation. Sometimes they even wait till I've left the campsite to start talking to him. Turns out my Resting Bitch Face is still as effective even on vacation. 

3. I don't really understand a beach that requires sweaters to fully enjoy. The Pacific Ocean is powerful, wild, and beautiful, and it is also like 52 degrees. The wind is so pervasive that some families rent wind shields to set up on the beach to protect their kids from whipping sand. Even at noon I have to wear a jacket and pants on the beach because it is so freaking cold. Hardly anyone gets in the water without a wetsuit, and I actually question the sanity of people wearing shorts and bikinis. I can see my breath every morning. Also, these beaches have warming signs along the boardwalk that say:

 "In case of tsunami, go for higher ground. Don't stay on the beach to watch the wave- if you can see it you can't escape it!"

"Know your tides! Watch for rip tides!"

"Watch for sneaker waves- don't ever turn your back on the ocean!"

"Don't play on logs!" (Because they can crush and kill you)

Sooooooo, why do thousands of people flock to these beaches every summer? They're probably all sun-starved Oregonians who are PUMPED that they have 14 consecutive days of sunshine after fall, winter, and spring of rain and fog. 

Tourrible vs. Cape Perpetua

Today the views were epic, the weather was great and Highway 101 seemed like it was finally living up to its reputation... as long as we ignored the absent shoulder and the close-passing RVs.

We spent the whole morning in busy, noisy, droning traffic again, enjoying our four foot shoulder but not much else. After lunch at the local seafood diner, our waitress approached and said, "I assume someone's warned you about what you're about to drive through, right?"

We admitted that we had heard biking conditions weren't ideal between Yachats and Florence, but the waitress had a more compelling story: Cape Perpetua is the the highest point on the Oregon Coast, so to reach it there's a slow, blind climb with little or no shoulder. Cars pile up behind not being able to pass, though some RVs blaze on through and have been known to clip cyclists with their mirrors.

She doesn't even like to DRIVE on that part of 101. 

Gulp.

I braced myself for the worst and took a sip of whiskey for courage, and then we plodded on. 

You know, it really wasn't that bad. After skirting along guardrails, watching shoulders disappear and cutting out into pullover areas for cars to pass all through Washington, Cape Perpetua was really nothing new. There were plenty of areas for us to pull aside for cars to pass, and Travis rode defensively in the lane so nobody would get any ideas about passing too close with oncoming traffic. 

It was our most scenic day of riding 101 so far, and we passed through diverse landscapes like rocky tide pools, wind-smoothed sandstone rock formations, picturesque lighthouses sitting atop threatening cliffs. We even saw a sea lion body surfing! No kidding, it was playing around and rode a couple of waves into the shore!

The day came to a great conclusion with a hot dog and baked bean supper, which I have been looking forward to and was totally stoked on. Tomorrow is our last day of Oregon Coast before we diverge from 101 and head up into the mountains on our three day journey to Crater Lake.